Two true examples of ╥ecotourism╙ alternatives from the Second Edition of The Adventure Guide To Costa Rica by Harry S. Pariser. Copyright 1994, Hunter Publishing. All rights reserved.
Rara Avis
If you only have time to visit one private nature preserve, this is the one to see! Jan., Feb., and March are busiest here. Established as a corporation in 1983, Rara Avis S. A., comprising 1,500 acres (600 ha), is the only place of its kind in the world. Biologist entrepreneur Amos Bien's philosophy is that development and conservation can be compatible and mutually reinforcing. His hope is to set an example which the local people will follow. One way is through tourism: the reserve is already the largest employer in Horquetas. Another is through utilizing the rainforest commercially without destroying it. Future projects planned include the commercial production of tree ferns, wicker, and wood, all to be done in an ecologically sustainable fashion. At present butterflies are being exported in cocoon form to Europe. Rara Avis is set 2,000 ft (700 m) above the often inclement Caribbean coast so you have a 75% chance of being rained on if you come for a short visit. So don't plan your schedule too tightly. May is both rainy and is "horsefly month"; Oct. is a good month to visit. It is constantly booked so reservations are a must.
getting there: This is the fun part! When you reserve, Amos will instruct you when and how to meet the tractor near Las Horquetas; it pulls a green canvas covered cart with seats. The normal transit point is the "casa de Roberto Villalobos," (tel. 76 4187), where the Rara Avis office is located. A "Jungle Train" truly worthy of the name, this infamous "tractor from Hell" takes you on a bumping and jarring four hour ride, traversing only nine km in the interim. Fording two rivers en route<W1>, you pass slowly moving panoramas of local life, past rolling hill after rolling hill of sadly deforested terrain, most of it cut down by local farmerswho eke out a living by using it for pasture. As an additional bonus, as you ride along you learn how clothes feel while they're in the dryer. Finally, you arrive at El Plçstico, a former prison colony site. The name relates to the fact that prisoners slept on the ground outside under plastic tarps. The renovated lodge here formerly housed administrators. Surrounded by volcanoes Barva, Turrialba, Iraz£, and Cacho Negro, the Caribbean coast is also visible from here. Check out the framed portrait of the Patron Saint of the Jungle upstairs. El Plastico and the surrounding 1,400 acres (572 ha) are owned by Selva Tica (tel. 53 0844). In the dry season, you will have lunch here before proceeding; in the wet season, you'll likely continue on to the waterfall lodge where you'll dine and recuperate. The last stretch of the road has been improved and is now accessible by tractor and on horseback. sights: A conception of the modest and innovative biologist Don Perry, the Automated Web for Canopy Exploration (AWCE) is a motor driven cable car that takes two researchers back and forth and up and down in the forest canopy. Engineered by John Williams, the system uses three steel cables which are strung between two trees on opposite sides of a ravine. Hydraulic winches run by a 10 hp motor move the platform either along the cables or up and down. In order to construct it, five men spent over two weeks fighting knee deep mud. It runs high above the spectacular two tiered Catarata Rara Avis which has a swimming hole at its base; an alarm installed after three Canadian students drowned in a freak avalanche of water warns of flash floods coming from above. Regrettably, visitors are no longer permitted to take a trip on the AWCE. other attractions: A birdwatcher's paradise, Rara Avis has had confirmed sightings of 335 species. Check out the hummingbird feeder as well as the area by the bridge. Other things to revel in include the spectacular collection of butterflies, the beautiful sunsets, the amazing night noises in the forest, and you can see the lights of the banana plantations off in the distance on a clear evening.
practicalities: Albergue El Plastico charges $45 pp ($22.50 for student groups). There are four rooms with a total of 10 lower bunks and nine upper bunks, and shared hot showers and flush toilets. The eight room Waterfall Lodge ($80 s, $70 pp dbl) can hold up to 32. Each room is equipped with a double bed, a single, and two fold down bunks. There are hammocks for lounging outside and a reading area upstairs where a pressure lamp attracts an incredibly diverse flying etymology museum every evening. There's a two night minimum stay. Although large groups may leave at any time, departures for small groups are scheduled for every Tues., Fri., and Sunday. Aside from the meals, nothing else is available for sale so anything (including candy or any other snacks) that you might require should be brought with you. The beer, soft drink, and phone concessions belong to the cook. While Rara Avis has a large supply of rubber boots, essential for exploring the reserve, there is no guarantee that a pair will fit you, so you might consider bringing your own. For more information, write Apdo. 8105, 1000 San JosÄ, fax 221 2314, or call 253 0844.
Association of Ecotorism and Conservation of Talamanca
With headquarters across from Soda Tamara in the center of the village of Puerto Viejo on Costa Rica╒s Caribbean coast, ATEC, the Association of Ecotorism and Conservation of Talamanca, is an exciting new development on the local scene. The organization's goals are to promote ecological tourism and environmental education for the local population and for visitors. In most of Costa Rica, the situation is one of eco exploitation rather than "ecotourism." Most guides are paid only a pittance compared to what tourists who take the tours pay. ATEC tours are limited to six participants and afford you the opportunity to see how Costa Ricans really live. These tours can be difficult so make sure you choose one that suits your needs. In the Cahuita area, snorkeling, a bird walk, farm walks, and others are offered. In Puerto Viejo walks are offered around farms, in the Chimuri reserve, and to the Kekoldi Indian Reserve. Snorkeling and camping can be arranged at Punta Mona. Three trips are also conducted in the Manzanillo Gandoca Reserve, with a Gandoca/ANAI overnight hike which includes a visit to an experimental fruit farm and may allow you to spot a nesting sea turtle (for more information on ANAI, see "volunteering" in the Practicalities section). Two trips are especially intriguing. One is to ASACODE, a local virgin forest and reforestation collective in San Miguel de Gandoca, and another is a horseback ride and hike to San Rafael de Bordon, a community 11 km away in the Talamanca foothills, which affords an opportunity to witness sustainable forest management in practice. Prices run from about $12.50 for a half day trip to $70 for a three night trip (not including food and lodging). A half day of birding is $12.50, and a snorkeling trip is around $17. For information write ATEC, Puerto Viejo or (inside Costa Rica only) leave a message at 758 3844 and let them know when they can call you back. A fax can be sent to the ANAI office in San JosÄ at 253 7424, but it will take time to arrive. The best way to book a tour is to stop by the ATEC office. The best way to book a tour is to stop by the ATEC office or call or fax 798-4244; the best times to call are around noon or after 9 PM.
More information about The Adventure Guide To Costa Rica:
"If you are the sort of a traveler who doesn't like to be called a tourist, doesn't identify with the ugly American...and wants to understand the people you meet and the places you go--Harry's books are for you. Very informative...with a restrained and arid sense of humor"--Culture Concrete
"...(differs) from the others in its naturalist-oriented considerations of outdoors activities and unusual offbeat adventures...mention of transportation challenges and unusual accommodations leads the visitor away from well-worn paths." --The Bookwatch
"..this extensive, up-to-date guide for Costa Rica is a welcome sight. Selected accommodations and restaurants span the scale from luxury to low budget, while the author's respectful, ecologically aware perspective contributes a progressive view of the sights and scenes encompassed in mountains and lowlands, rain forests, and beaches." --American Library Association Booklist
"Pariser's book may be the best-balanced, most comprehensive guide of the entire Tico bunch. This is the one to take with you on your next trip around Costa Rica."
--Lan Sluder, Travel Forum, CompuServe and in the Tico Times
The Adventure Guide to Costa Rica includes:
Ñ Full color photos and maps
Ñ The best snorkeling and diving spots; cruises, fishing, and river adventure trips
Ñ All ranges of accommodation from camping and barebones hotels to exclusive resorts
Ñ Dining for gourmets, vegetarians, and lovers of local fare
Ñ Whitewater rafting outfitters and locations
Ñ The best hiking trails, tips on birdwatching spots, horseback riding, and surfing
Ñ Travel to and from the outlying islands, parks and reserves, and archaeological sites
Ñ Renting a car, taking a taxi or bus, flying by plane, or traveling by ferry
Ñ Local lore, Limùn's Carnival, and other festivities
Ñ Natural history and environmental conduct
Ñ Volunteer opportunities, language schools, and environmental organizations
Ñ All local services including tours, post offices, and shopping
Ñ History, politics, economics, religion, and ethnic groups
Ñ Latest information on travel to and from Panama and Nicaragua
Second Edition: $15.95, 463 pages ISBN 1-55650-598-1
Other books by Harry S. Pariser include The Adventure Guide to the Dominican Republic, $14.95 (Second Edition); The Adventure Guide to Belize, $14.95 (Second Edition); The Adventure Guide to the Virgin Islands (Third Edition), $14.95; The Adventure Guide to Barbados, $15.95 (Second Edition); The Adventure Guide to Puerto Rico, $14.95 (Second Edition); and Jamaica: A Visitor's Guide (Third Edition), $14.95.
All are available from Hunter Publishing, 300 Raritan Parkway, Edison, NJ 08818. Call (908-225-1900) or fax (908-417-0482). Also distributed nationwide by Ingram. For more information contact Harry S. Pariser at (415) 665-4829 or write 1327 9th Av., No. 1, San Francisco, CA 94122.
Copies may also be ordered from Harry S. Pariser at the above address; include a check or money order for $20 (priority mail shipping); $18 (book rate shipping) and mark ╥book order╙ on the envelope. note: Readers comments are always appreciated.
